Frequently Asked Questions



Q: How do I clean my leather using your products?

A: First, use one of our microfibre cloths to wipe off any dust from the surface of your leather. Then, use our leather cleaner with another microfibre cloth to wipe over the surface again. This ensures that all dirt, grease and oils are removed, ready for the leather to be conditioned. Lastly, apply a light even coat of our conditioning cream with one of our magic sponges. Work the cream in a circular motion across the surface of the leather and allow to dry completely before applying a second coat. When dry, use another microfibre cloth to buff and wipe away any excess cream to give the leather a nice and shiny look. Click 'here' to check out our leather product range.


Q: How do I recolour my leather using your products?

A: Here is a step-by-step guide to recolouring your worn leather using the 5 stage process.

1. Mix well before use. Lightly use sand paper on the area that needs repairing. Apply prep wash with a microfibre cloth and clean in a circular motion. When dry, move to Step 2: Primer.

2. Mix well before use. Apply the primer with another microfibre cloth in a circular motion; ensuring thin, even coats. Primer is designed to provide better adhesion, giving an optimum finish. When primer has dried (Approx. 15min), move to Step 3: Dulling Agent.

3. Mix well before use. Apply the dulling agent with another microfibre cloth to ensure the colour can be matched. The dulling agent is very handy and will give a satin finish to your leather, however, more can be used. Move to Step 4: Pigment Colour.

4. Mix well before use. Depending on the colour of your leather, choose from our range of pigment colours available 'here'. Apply colour with another microfibre cloth with thin even coats. Wait for the first coat to dry, then apply 2-3 coats depending on the desired finish. When the look that you're after has been achieved, move to Step 5: Topcoat Sealer.

5. Mix well before use. The topcoat sealer can be applied by hand or using a microfibre cloth. The topcoat sealer is designed to seal and protect the colour. Apply in thin coasts, two coats is recommended. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying the final coat. Once completed, the finished product can be used within 24 hours. Available in 'Gloss' and 'Extreme Gloss', depending on what finish you're after.


Q: Are the chemicals in your products hazardous?

A: No. All of the chemicals in our PURUS cleaning products are either water based or alcohol based. There are no solvents or hazardous materials present in any of our products. PURUS cleaning products are environmentally friendly, and safe for everyone. There are no harsh odours or vapours to cause you concern or discomfort.


Q: What are some of the do's and don'ts for cleaning leather?


  • Don't use solvents or abrasives to attempt to remove stubborn stains or ink.
  • Don't feed, nourish or condition your leather with oils or waxes.
  • Don't allow dirt or soiling to build up. (This is what causes the damage)
  • Don't allow dye transfer build up on pale leathers.
  • Don't use general household cleaners.
  • Don't listen to old wives tales about leather.
  • Don't allow staining or fading to become serious before considering professional restoration.
  • Never use baby wipes or magic erasers to clean your leather.


  • Always blot up spills ASAP without excessive rubbing.
  • Always clean high wear areas little and often.
  • Always use water-based products - these will correct the moisture level of the leather and help avoid staining. They will also keep your leather in the best condition.
  • Have your leather professionally cleaned at regular intervals. (Usually once per year)


Q: Do I need to maintain my leather, even if it doesn't appear to be dirty?

A: All Imports recommend cleaning and conditioning your leather every year or year and a half. Oils in your leather dry out and evaporate even when your leather is rarely used. Also, exposure to sunlight and air flow accelerate the drying-out process. It is important to replenish these oils as well as occasionally clean the leather to protect it for years to come. Check out our online store 'here' for our range of leather cleaning products.


Q: Will your leather products change the feel of my leather?

A: Although every situation can be different, it should feel very close or exactly like it did when it was new.


Q: Do you have any tips to maintain my leather after I have cleaned it?


  • Rotate cushions every 30-60 days for even wear, depending on the amount of use. Remember to exercise poly-fill bag by fluffing and redistributing the poly-fill evenly throughout.
  • All leather will fade. To protect your leather, do not place it in any form of sunlight. Do not place your leather furniture near windows, under skylights or beneath similar forms of light. Keep medium to large windows closed when you are not home (exposure to the sun even for a few minutes a day will affect your leather). Open grain nubuck and aniline leathers are extremely sensitive to direct or indirect light.
  • All leathers perform better when preventative maintenance is practiced. Using our microfibre cloths to dust off arms, seats, and back pillows once a week.
  • Use our PURUS leather cleaning products on furniture every 3-6 months, or more often if needed. This will prevent body oils and salt from your skin being absorbed into the leather, which are harmful and could affect the look, feel and longevity of your leather. After leather is clean and dry, re-protect with PURUS Leather Conditioning Creme.
  • Take care not to place your furniture too near a radiator or similar heat source. Make sure there is at least 2 feet of space between your furniture and heat source.


Q: How soon after I clean my leather can I use it?

A: After cleaning and applying the conditioning cream, it is best to leave the furniture unused for a few hours. Depending on the usage and the quality of leather, time for the conditioning cream to be absorbed into the leather will vary.


Q: I have white leather furniture, does it need different treatment?

A: White lounge-leather tends to attract more dye colour marks so it requires more frequent cleaning and protection than other coloured leathers.


Q: Which leather product(s) do I need for my furniture?

A: Our team at All Imports are always happy to answer any questions that you may have, and can help you in the process of choosing the correct leather product for its intended use. Click 'here' to visit our contact page or call us on 1300 263 551.




Q: How do I clean my couch using your product?

A: Our fabric cleaner isa wool-safe product that is used for spills and stains that have come into contact with your fabric or microsuede upholstery. All you need to do is simply spray on the fabric cleaner to the area effected, and gently work it into the fibres with a microfibre cloth. Then, leave for a minute, and repeat if necessary. Wipe away excess afterwards. The fabric cleaner is great for coffee, red-wine stains, dirt, pet stains and much more!


Q: How do I fabric protect my furniture?

A: The fabric protector is use for protecting your fabric or microsuede upholstery from spills, using an invisible barrier against stains, resists general soiling and even oil. To use our fabric protector, spray a light even coat over the fibres. 

Spray a light even coat over the fibres. The product will dry within approx. 30 minutes. If you're not sure whether or not you can use a fabric protector on your upholstery. Spray a test patch on an area and wait to see if any colour bleeds, if in the case it doesn't, then you can spray the rest of the couch.


Items that you can use fabric protection on include, but not limited to:

- Fabric Upholstery 

- School Bags/Backpacks

- Clothes


Q: How do I use the fabric protection?

A: Step 1 - Protect surrounding non-fabric materials from overspray. If overspray occurs, quickly wipe up.

Step 2 - Shake can well.

Step 3 - Test for colourfastness. Spray hidden area until wet and wipe vigorously with a white absorbent cloth. If colour rubs off, DO NOT USE.

Step 4 - Hold can upright 6’’ (15cm) from fabric surface. Overlap spray using a slow, sweeping motion. Two light coats are better than one heavy coating.

Step 5 - Allow to dry between coats.

Step 6 - Reapply after every cleaning or annually to maintain protection. Durability of protection varies with wear.


Watch the video below to see how effective protecting your couch can be...




Q: What is chain link fencing?

A: A chain-link fence, also known as wire netting, wire-mesh or chain-wire, is a type of woven fence commonly made from galvanised, PVC or LLDPE-coated steel wire. The wires run vertically and are bent into a zig-zag pattern, so that each ‘zig’, hooks with the wire immediately on one side, and each ‘zag’ with the wire immediately on the other. 


Q: What sizes can chain link fencing come in?

 A: You can purchase chain link fencing through our online store in 25m rolls.


Q: How do I maintain chain link fencing?

 A: Tips to maintain your chain link fencing include;

  • You can give you fence a good washing with soapy water between seasons in order to keep it looking new.
  • Wax then oil the fence’s springs, latches and joints, etc. with mineral oil.
  • Use steel wool to sand away light scratches.
  • Check for loose nails.
  • Oil the hinges.
  • Replace pickets and palings monthly preferably.


Q: How is chain link fencing manufactured?

A: The manufacturing of chain-link fencing is called weaving. A metal wire, often galvanized to reduce corrosion, is pulled along a rotating long and flat blade, thus creating a somewhat flattened spiral. The spiral continues to rotate past the blade and winds its way through the previous spiral that is already part of the fence. When the spiral reaches the far end of the fence, the spiral is cut near the blade. Next, the spiral is pressed flat and the entire fence is moved up, ready for the next cycle. The end of every second spiral overlaps the end of every first spiral. The machine clamps both ends and gives them a few twists. This makes the links permanent.


Q: Where can I install chain link fencing?

A: Chain link fencing has wide range of standard specification options makes it ideal for a huge array of applications.

These include:
  • Factory enclosures
  • Building site enclosures
  • Tennis court fencing
  • Internal factory partitions
  • Cricket practice nets
  • Temporary protective fencing
  • Softball/baseball nets
Chain link fencing's versatility makes it the automatic choice of government departments, building contractors, property owners,
developers and many other specifiers.


      Q: What are the specifications of your chain link fencing?
      Material: Galvanized Steel Wire
      Diameter: 2.8mm
      PVC Coated Thickness: 0.7-1mm
      Tensile Strength - 450Mpa
      Zinc Coating - 20g/m2


          Q: How do I install chain link fencing?

           A: Click on this easy to follow video below for a step-by-step guide on how to install chain link fencing; 

          Our flooring solution product range 'here'.


          Q: What are the Australian standards for chain link fencing?


          The Australian Standard for chainlink security fencing is covered by AS1725-2010 - Parts 1-5

          The Australian Standard for Chain-link Fabric Fencing and Gates (aka Chainwire) replaces AS1725-2003 – “Chain-link fabric security fences and gates"

          AS1725-2010 expands on the main application areas of chain-link fabric fencing and gates, but ensures that
          the five (5) different sections, four (4) which are new, are consistent in both types and applications of materials
          and installation standards.

          The revised standard and comprises of 5 parts: 

          AS1725.1 – 2010 Chain link fabric fencing – Security fencing & gates – General requirements
          AS1725.2 – 2010 Chain link fabric fencing – Tennis court fencing – Commercial
          AS1725.3 – 2010 Chain link fabric fencing – Tennis court fencing – Private/Residential
          AS1725.4 – 2010 Chain link fabric fencing – Cricket net fencing enclosures
          AS1725.5 – 2010 Chain link fabric fencing – Sports ground fencing – General requirements
          Chain-link fabric and associated wire made from Standard Galvanized (SG) W02Z wire does not meet the minimum standard for any parts of AS1725-2010
          To obtain a copy of the new Australian Standard you can do so by contacting SAI Global direct:
          SAI Global
          Phone: 131 242
          Fax: 02 8206 6020
          Post: GPO Box 5420 Sydney NSW, 2OO1 AUSTRALIA




          Q: What are geo cells?

           A: Geo cells are engineered for protection and stabilisation applications. They are commonly used to help improve the performance of standard construction materials and erosion-control treatments. The products are three-dimensional, expandable panels made from highly-dense polyethylene interconnected strips, that form the walls of a flexible, three-dimensional cellular structure into which they’re then compacted side by side.


          Q: Where can geo cells be applied?

           A: Geo cells can be applied through a number of different applicants, the most typical include the following;

          • Soil Stabilisation
          • Retaining Walls
          • Slope Erosion Control
          • Load Platforms
          • Tree Root Protection


          Q: Will geo cells help with controlling erosion?

           A: Using All Imports geo cells to control erosion ensures better resistance to the erosive effects of wind and water run-off. As All Imports geo cells are made from permeable geo-textile, it allows water to flow freely between the cells encouraging drainage and vegetation. Typical application includes;

          • Cut or fill embankments
          • Dams or spillways
          • Revetments
          • Abutment protection
          • Geomembrane protection
          • Soil-nailing cover
          • Landfill lining


          Q: How are the geo cells packaged?

           A: All Imports geo cells are supplied as flat packed panels which are opened to form the honeycomb-like structure.


          Q: How do I install geo cells?

           A: Geo cells are positioned and pinned to the ground using fixing pins and filled with a suitable permeable infill. They can be used on slopes up to 1:1 and is flexible enough to be formed around trees and other obstacles. Seeded topsoil is the most suitable fill for less-exposed slopes, with small shrubs offering improved protection, whilst a granular material offers the highest protection. 




          Q: Where can I install carpet tiles?

          A: All Imports carpet tiles are perfect for kitchens and food areas, office and heavy traffic locations, child care centres, school and public access areas, or even just the converted garage, granny flat, rumpus room or home gym. The flat dense pile is also perfect for areas where trolleys, or wheel chairs are used.


          Q: How do I install carpet tiles?

          A: Click on this easy to follow video below for a step-by-step guide on how to install carpet tiles; 


          Q: Why should I install carpet tiles instead of broadloom carpet?

          A: Unlike broadloom carpet, carpet tiles can be installed without expensive tools and years of carpet laying skills, so they're perfect for fast installations. Also, due to the nature of a tile, All Imports carpet tiles can be laid in areas with unusual shapes like halls and kitchens, only incurring minimal off-cuts and wastage that might arise when using a broadloom carpet or vinyl. Carpet tiles allow much more design freedom than carpet coverings or timber flooring. Just by swapping a few tiles in your current design you can create a whole new floor pattern without the need to replace the whole carpet.


          Q: Are carpet tiles expensive?

          A: All Imports stock a wide range of the most popular carpet tiles at discounted prices; $15 for a box of 24 carpet tiles. Feel free to check out our easy and simple online store 'here'.


          Q: What coloured carpet tiles should I buy?

          A: Depending on the colour you can change your home or office ambience. Choosing a dark colour or going for a lighter one will give each room a different character. Depending on what you want to create, choose a colour that will enhance the end goal; for example you can go for a warm colour to create a cosy, relaxing room or choose a cold one to indicate it is an office space.


          Q: What kind of adhesive should I use for carpet tiles?

          A: Never use adhesive which is not recommend for the carpet tiles, always use an adhesive which is specially designed for them. DO NOT USE any hard adhesive which will permanently fix carpet tiles to the floor. The whole point of installing carpet tiles is that you can lift, clean or replace in the future as and when required.


          Q: I am thinking of installing carpet tiles on top of old flooring, is this OK? 

          A: We advise not to install directly onto your existing flooring, use plywood sheet and screw it equally on all side or use foam underlay using tape on all the side, so it will not move while installing carpet tile on top of it. This way your existing flooring will not get affected.


          Q: How do I clean and maintain carpet tiles?

          A: To clean and maintain your carpet tiles you need to vacuum them daily, this process will make your carpet look new and it will make durable for a long time. If there is any liquid such as juice happens to stain the carpet tiles, we recommend for you not to use any bleach product as this will permanently stain it. Instead of using any harsh chemical products, use a damp cloth with little amount of washing up liquid to remove any stubborn stains, or hire a professional carpet cleaner.


          Q: Are carpet tiles suitable if you have pets?

          A: Yes, carpet tiles are great for pets. In any case where a carpet tiles becomes spoiled, one or two of them depending on the size can be easily replaced or cleaned. 


          Q: Can I install carpet tiles on top of vinyl/laminate flooring? 

          A: You can use carpet tiles on top of vinyl and laminate flooring, but you just have to make sure that the surface is hard and install them with either double sided tape or carpet tile adhesive. It is not advisable if in the future you wanted to revert back to your old flooring as glue marks will be present.


          Q: Are carpet tiles good for sound proofing rooms?

          A: Carpet tiles on floors are generally excellent for sound absorption and insulating properties. Our carpet tiles are fully tested by our manufacturers and have passed all the relevant safety checks for use on floors only.


          Q: Will carpet tiles stop damp from coming through?

          A: Yes they can, but it depends  on what kind of damp it is. We recommend to always seek help from our professional technical team so that we can advise you on these types of situations before attempting to cover any damp issues that are on the carpet tiles. 


          Q: Can I lay carpet tiles on top of old carpet?

          A: It is not advisable to install new carpet tiles on existing broadloom carpet or carpet tiles. This is because the carpet or carpet tile will tend to curl up from the corners which will create a trip hazard. Carpet tiles do not curl up when laid correctly, so it is advisable to use only on concrete or plywood floor, and also make sure before installing the floor is clean, dry and free from grease and dirt.


          Q: Can you fit carpet tiles on stairs?

          A: You can install carpet tiles on a staircase but it depends on the selection of design and size to avoid wastage. For more technical questions, you can reach out to us and our expert team who can help you with your queries.


          Q: Are your carpet tiles waterproof? 

          A: No, our carpet tiles are not waterproof. If you have experienced any sort of water damage, please seek assistance from a professional water damage team.




          Q: What causes water damage ?

          A: A lot of times the causes of water damages are not controllable. Australia is prone to many natural disasters each year, such as thunderstorms or cyclones and are mostly the cause for water damage. They can cause flooding from pipe bursts, appliance malfunctions, roof leaks, foundation leaks, or septic tank overflows. Flash flooding, pipe bursts, and sewage backups are especially dangerous as they can produce several inches of water in less than a day. There is unfortunately not a lot you can do to prevent natural disasters from damaging your property. 

          Further reasons that we identify often as a reason for water damage are: poor drainage, a faulty installation of shower/basins or failure of washing machine/dishwasher. Especially when building new or doing a rebuild, make sure to find specialists to help you with the installations! 
          Also always be aware of turning off your taps properly, forgetting to do so can cause huge damages. 

          Q: Why is water damage dangerous?

          A: Floodwater that comes from outside and from sewage backups contains dangerous contaminants like viruses and bacteria. If the water isn’t drained within 24-48 hours, structural damage and mould growth can ensue. Even water leaks that infiltrate your home slowly, can cause damage to the building and lead to mould growth. Mould left unchecked will spread quickly through the home.


          Q: What should I do after a flood, sewage or water leak?
          A: It is essential to contact a water damage restoration company as soon as possible. Don’t fall into the trap of shifting it on the next days or weeks, as water is causing mould and irremediable damage to your home. It is also important to contact your insurance company to start the claim process. If safe, shut off the utilities in your home to avoid further damages. Don’t enter your home if it has suffered structural damage. Before you approach floodwater make sure to turn off all electricity and avoid contaminants.


          Q: Will my insurance cover water damage?

          A: Some insurance provides coverage for damage that is sudden and accidental (such as water heater ruptures or pipe bursts). However, for flood damage, no matter the source of the water, there is NO coverage by standard homeowners policies. Flooding can occur from storms, sewer backup, and overflowing rivers, ponds, lakes, and oceans.  Note that water damage that results from lack of maintenance is not covered on a standard homeowners insurance policy.


          Q: Is storm damage covered by home insurance?

          A: Your home insurance will cover your house and contents for water damage caused by an insured event such as a storm. But if the damage is the result of a leak in your roof that the insurer deems to be a maintenance issue (and thus not covered), the water damage to your home and contents will usually not be covered.


          Q: Does landlord insurance cover leaks?

          A: Water damage to the contents of a rental property is also a common insurance claim. In some cases, it may be caused by the tenant or faulty appliances and fittings (e.g. leaks from a washing machine or dishwasher) or by problems relating to the property (such as a burst pipe or a leaking sink).

          Many standard building and contents policies exclude water damage due to accidents caused by the tenant, or limit cover to the contents, not the building, so it’s important to have landlord insurance to cover as many contingencies as possible.

          As a property owner, it is also advisable to check the extent to which you are covered for storm, flood and general water damage to your property, and to understand any exclusions of cover.


          Q: What is an air blower/mover?

          A: An air blower is a machine used for generating flow of air at substantial pressure. The air flow generated is used for different purposes such as small car cleaning blowers, vacuum cleaners, air conditions etc. Depending on the application requirement air flow and pressure may vary.

          Air Blowers can be categorised in following types on the basis of principle of air flow generation:

          1. Centrifugal Blower - Air enters axially and leaves the blade radial direction.
          2. Axial Fans- Air enters axially and also leaves the fan blades in axial direction.

          Air blowers have huge requirement in industries and used for applications such as boilers, air ventilation, paint shops, hotel kitchen exhaust etc.


          Q: What is a dehumidifier?

          A: Dehumidifiers work to lower the relative humidity in a space by removing  moisture from the air. Depending on the size of the space, the particular humidity risk factors, the amount of water needing to be removed, or chemicals present, you may need either a residential or commercial dehumidifier. Suitable and a general requirement for all water damage jobs no matter the environment.


          Q: What is an down draft floor dryer?

          A: Carpet and Floor Dryers (Down Draft Air Dryers) are designed to speed-dry carpet and hard floors after cleaning, down draft air movers pull warm, dry air from above and direct it in a 360-degree pattern across the floor. Suitable for hard wood floors and direct drying of small areas.


          Q: What is a low-range blower?

          A: A low pressure blower is used if the focus is on high air flows and very low pressure. Suitable for direct drying on small areas.


          Q: What is an air scrubber?

          A: An air scrubber is a portable filtration system that removes particles, gasses, and/or chemicals from the air within a given area. These machines draw air in from the surrounding environment and pass it through a series of filters to remove contaminants. Suitable for using in environments that have dangerous and hazardous airborne chemicals. 


          Q: What is a typhoon blower?

          A: A Typhoon system consists of a blower with one or several air knives and tubes. Each system will be tailored specifically for a customers application. It is more powerful than a regular air blower and can efficiently dry an area faster, however, it is more expensive, so be sure to do some research before purchasing.


          Our water damage equipment range 'here'. Our water damage rental services 'here'.


          Q: Can I fix it myself?

           A: If you are dealing with a small amount of water, you can easily mop it up, and wipe it dry. But when you have major flooding or leaks, it’s going to be a bit more than your mop can handle (no matter how good it is!). When it comes to water damage, there is a lot of water you won’t be able to see or have access too. You’ll start to get some of the damage above without even knowing it! It’s important to have a professional take care of your water damage for you. Then you can rest easy knowing the integrity of your home is safe, and your family members will not be susceptible to any health threats. 


          Q: How do I prevent water damage from occurring?


          • Periodically check for leaks under your sinks or where a hose connects to a water supply.
          • If your refrigerator has an ice-maker, make sure the connection hose is securely attached to the water supply.
          • Remove and replace deteriorated caulk and grout in bathrooms.
          • In the laundry area, check washer hoses regularly for cracks or leaks around hose ends.
          • Check your water heater for rusted areas or wet spots on the floor.
          • An average water heater will last about 15 years; sump pumps have a 10-year life span.
          • Outside your home, keep roof free of debris, ice dams, and so forth.
          • Keep gutters clean to avoid drainage problems.
          • Once a year, have the A/C system serviced by a qualified contractor.
          • Before winter, disconnect hoses and turn off each spigot’s water supply.
          • Replace damaged caulk around doors and windows.

          Q: What does a restoration company do?

          A: Once the professionals from the restoration company get to the site of the water cleanup, they carry out an assessment. The best professionals provide upfront pricing on the water cleanup, drying, and restoration services to be provided. They also provide mitigation services which are important in ensuring that incidences of water in business do not occur often.


          Q: What type of water damage is covered by homeowners insurance?

          A: Homeowners insurance may help cover damage caused by something such as leaking plumbing if the leak is sudden and accidental, or if a washing machine supply hose suddenly breaks or a pipe bursts. However, homeowners insurance does not cover damage resulting from poor maintenance.


          Q: What is a primary air filter?

          A: The outer or primary filter element is designed to remove contaminants from the air coming into the intake system. This is the workhorse of the air intake filtration system.


          Q: What is a HEPA filter?

          A: HEPA is an acronym for high efficiency particulate air. Basically, HEPA is a type of filter that can trap a large amount of very small particles that other vacuum cleaners would simply recirculate back into the air of your home. 


          HOW TO CLEAN MOULD F.A.Q's

          Q: What is mould?

          A: Moulds are simple microscopic organisms whose purpose In the ecosystem is to break down dead materials. Moulds can be found on plants, dry leaves and on almost every organic material. While some moulds are useful (such as those used for antibiotics and cheese), others are known to be highly toxic when ingested or inhaled.

          Q: Do I have mould? Why?

          A: To the naked eye, mould growth appears as a discoloured surface, it can be any colour but the most prominent colours are blue, black and green. Moulds reproduce using spores, which are like lightweight particles that are released and float on air currents until the find a suitable place to grow. Mould is likely to grow where there is water or dampness such as in bathrooms and basements.

          Q: Are there health risks associated with mould?

          A: When mouldy material becomes damaged or disturbed, spores can be released into the air. Exposure can occur if people inhale the spores, directly handle mouldy materials or accidentally ingest it. Most types of mould are not hazardous to healthy individuals. However, too much exposure to mould may cause or worsen conditions such as asthma, hay fever or other allergies. The most common symptoms of overexposure are dizziness, cough, congestion, runny nose, eye irritation and aggravation of asthma. Illness, memory loss and death; all of these health risks are being linked to exposure to toxic mould. Men, women, children and infants can all be susceptible to this fungal danger. Studies for links to short and long term memory loss are currently being studied. The health cost both personally and financially from mould exposure can be extremely high.

          Q: Can mould harm my home?

          A: Mould will cause damage to the structure if left untreated because it will continue to grow and spread, eating building materials like wood and drywall. The presence of mould during a home inspection can cause your property value to lower or the sale to even stop with offers being withdrawn until remediation has been completed.


          Q: How can I prove that I have mould issues in my home/office?

          A: Most mould remediation companies should be able to carry out an initial mould report for you where they access the entire property and perform tests to prove that it's present. Afterwards the company can then proceed to remediating the affected areas and treat them accordingly.


          Q: How do I deal with mould in my home/office?


          Step 1: Learn about moisture

          Assessing mould development includes more than just looking at whats visible, sometimes this is just the tip of the iceberg. Mould can be an imperceptible unwanted guest. To begin with, understand that behind all mould development is a water or dampness issue. Second, turn into an moisture king — know where moisture originates from and how it gets into the home.

          Step 2: Document the mould problem and create a remediation plan

          Assessing mould development includes more than just looking at whats visible, sometimes this is just the tip of the iceberg. Mould can be an imperceptible unwanted guest. To begin with, understand that behind all mould development is a water or dampness issue. Second, turn into an moisture king — know where moisture originates from and how it gets into the home.

          Step 3: Calculate the extent of the contamination

          Mould may not always grow in just one area, so you have to understand how much contamination you are really dealing with. Ascertaining the extent of the damage will help you understand how to deal with and effectively remove the mould. The objective of mould remediation is to prevent mould developing in the home, and to retain structural integrity.

          Step 4: Remediate mould contamination

          Remediation will include tidying up existing mould while maintaining a  barrier between yourself and the source while also tending to the area causing the mould be that a leak or damp area. The next thing to do is work out your contamination size and decide whether you're working in a region up to 10 square metres (around the span of a full sheet of drywall). Assuming this is the case, you'll be following the rules for remediation levels 1 and 2. Level 1 remediation is utilised for smaller regions of mould up to 3-5 square metres and Level 2 remediation covers area from 5 - 10 square metres.

          The clean up process is the same for Level 1 and Level 2 mould remediation and comprises these steps:

          • Repair the water problem. This will help prevent new mould spores from growing.
          • Isolate the contaminated area. Close all doors and windows between the contaminated area and other rooms of the home for both levels. For Level 2 remediation, also cover all doorways and any other openings with 6 mil polyethylene sheeting. Seal all seams of the sheeting with duct tape and slip openings in the sheeting to enter the contaminated area.
          • Suppress dust. Do this by misting the contaminated areas.
          • Remove materials. Remove all wet and mould-damaged porous materials. 
          • Place materials in plastic bags. Discard all wet and mouldy materials in plastic bags that are at least 6 mil thick, double-bag the materials, and tie the bags closed. The bags can be disposed of as regular trash once the outside of the bags are wiped with a damp cloth and detergent solution prior to leaving the contamination area.
          • Clean. All non-porous materials and wood surfaces that are mouldy must be cleaned. Use a wire brush on all mouldy surfaces and then wipe the area with disposable wipes. To dispose of as regular trash, discard wipes in 6 mil polyethylene bags, double-bag and tie closed. Finally, scrub all mouldy surfaces using a damp cloth and detergent solution until all mould has been removed and rinsed cleaned surfaces with clean water.
          • Clean the affected area and egress. The process for Level 1 differs from Level 2 at this point. For Level 1, clean with a damp cloth and/or mop with detergent solution. Level 2 requires you to vacuum all surfaces with a HEPA vacuum, and then clean all surfaces with a damp cloth and/or mop and detergent solution. Discard wipes as described above.
          • Visibility test. All areas should be visibly free of contamination and debris — no dust and dirt means no mould.
          • Dry. Cleaned materials should be dried to allow leftover moisture to evaporate. To speed up the drying process, use fans, dehumidifiers or raise the indoor air temperature.
          • Replace. All materials that were moved should be replaced or repaired.


          Step 5: Determine if clean up has been successful

          Just because the mould is gone and there appears to be no residue doesn't guarantee that you're finished. The last thing to do is to decide whether your tidy up endeavours have been effective. 

            Whether or not you require extra testing to be carried out on the mould areas is very dependant upon what kind of mould you have been dealing with, some times it is necessary to have professionals come in and test the areas to ensure they are mould free.

            When it comes to mould the key is to ensure that the area has been cleaned affectively and cannot become contaminated again, talk to experts about how to make sure your home stays mould free, and be sure to check hidden areas often for potential regrowth.